Gardening with Shrubs

Early autumn is the time of the year to think about shrubs, especially the planting of broad-leafed evergreens and conifers.

Planting evergreen shrubs and conifers

By planting during early autumn, evergreens have an opportunity to settle in and make some root growth before the severe winter weather arrives. Spring planting is not as satisfactory because the soil is still cold following the winter and neither evergreens nor conifers are encouraged to make rapid root development.

Cold drying winds are often experienced and so even though winter is in prospect, evergreens planted during autumn have a much better chance of becoming established than those planted in early spring.

Most evergreens transplant readily from open ground as they make nice fibrous root systems. The only exceptions are pine, fir and spruce. These are the conifers which have needles rather than fern-like foliage.

They also have rather wiry roots which do not hold soil readily, so when purchasing this kind of conifer select a container grown specimen rather than one lifted directly from open ground. This will have a better chance of rapid establishment.

Evergreens and conifers purchased as freshly lifted plants from a nursery generally establish quickly. Modern growing techniques ensure a tight ball of fibrous root and providing that this does not dry out, they move quite satisfactorily.

Preparing the planting hole

It is important that an adequate planting hole is prepared for all shrubs, irrespective of variety. If the soil in the bottom of the hole is hard and compacted, then use a fork to break it up.

Place the shrub in the hole and ensure that the finished level of the soil is going to be at the same level on the stem as when the plant was in the nursery. Planting too deeply will cause the shrub to struggle.

Take the shrub out of the hole again and incorporate a good planting mixture in the bottom. Special tree and shrub planting composts can be purchased, but any good organic matter will serve adequately. Replace the shrub and sprinkle planting compost around the root-ball. This will encourage the rapid initiation of fibrous roots which are vital for successful establishment.

If the shrub or conifer has been growing in a container inspect the root system carefully. If it appears to be very fibrous and not occupying all the compost, then plant it with the minimum of disturbance. If the root-ball is solid and tight, then it should be broken open to encourage the roots to escape into the surrounding soil.

Early autumn pruning

For most gardeners autumn is thought of as pruning time, but this is only true with regard to the coming of winter. For most woody plants final pruning takes place during spring.

Shortening back roses when the majority of flowers have faded is very important. Remove about one third of the growth, cutting at a bud. For the moment it does not matter which way the bud is pointing, but it is important to be at a leaf joint so that premature die-back does not occur.

Remove any weak or damaged branches as these will in any event be cut out in the spring. Tidying up the bushes this way prevents windrock, which is the blowing about of the tops of the bushes and the creation of a depression in the soil at the base. This collects water and can encourage root rot if the season is very wet.

Deciduous flowering shrubs like philadelphus, deutzia and weigela can be tidied up, but once again any severe remedial pruning should be left until spring. Cut out soft, sappy uncharacteristic growths and any that are weak, crossing, or clearly in the wrong place.

Of course any suckers can also be removed, but do not cut them off with secateurs. To ensure that there is no regrowth pull them away from the roots by hand. This may involve a little excavation around the growths, but by tearing them away the problem is eliminated rather than merely alleviated.

If shrubs with coloured or variegated foliage show any reversion to plain green leaves, cut these sections out immediately. Green growth dominates coloured and will quickly take the plant over unless dealt with promptly.

Some shrubs must be left completely alone, except for removing damaged shoots. These particularly include rosemary, sage, the cotton lavenders and other winter vulnerable grey-leafed plants. Although they should be cut back hard in the spring, taking the shears or secateurs to them now can be disastrous.