December in the garden

This is an excellent time of the year to make structural alterations or additions to the garden. With the beds and borders naked and the leaves all off the trees the true structure of the garden can be observed.

Paths

Paths are usually created to fit in with the layout and design of the garden, but in practice, although visually acceptable they are often clearly in the wrong place. Desire lines are created across the lawn, beds and borders by the milkman, the paperboy or family members. They are generally the shortest distance between two points. It is often not practical to alter the alignment of a path, but this is the best time of the year to make an assessment and to decide what should be done.

A path can be constructed of a wide range of materials but it is essential that it is properly drained and edged. Nowadays there are excellent self-binding gravels available which make a pleasant hard-wearing finish, although the choice of paving materials is enormous from re-constituted stone and concrete to dressed stone and cobbles.

A firm foundation of hardcore is an essential requirement for any path. Do not skimp upon the width either. A path should be wide enough for two people to walk side by side and for the gardener to push a wheelbarrow without catching himself on overhanging shrubs.

Fences, trellis and pergolas

Wooden structures to create plant supports and boundaries are best constructed during the winter. Always use timber that has been pressure-treated with a wood preservative that is harmless to plants. Wherever possible when the timber comes into direct contact with the ground, especially the posts, place into protective metal spikes. It is vital to ensure that posts are upright and sufficiently deep into the ground to offer proper support and where appropriate are securely concreted.

Screws are always better fasteners than nails, although nuts and bolts are equally satisfactory where major supports are being connected. When fastening trellis to walls drill holes and insert wall plugs before screwing the panels in position. If a trellis is not in keeping, then use specially manufactured vine eyes or wall nails and create a support using wires.

The patio

The patio has become an important feature of modern living, a link between house and garden. If you have a patio already it may not be easy to make it garden friendly, for the best schemes are thought through well before construction. It is quite surprising what a difference to the softening of stone and paving a little careful consideration can make at the planning stage.

It is essential that the patio is laid on a solid foundation and has adequate drainage. Where provision for planting pits for trees or shrubs are appropriate, create these well in advance of paving. Do not try to break up a confined pocket of compacted soil later. Plan for climbing plants too and leave sufficient bed, border or pocket area next to the house wall or fence for their establishment.

The rock garden

A perfect rock garden attempts to create a moraine; an accumulation of rocks and organic debris. It should not be a heap of soil with rocks protruding from it. Such a conglomeration not only looks ugly, but is inhospitable to the majority of alpine plants which demand an open free-draining soil.

A rock garden should be constructed so that it appears to be part of a landscape and grows out of the ground, its structure creating pockets in which plants with different soil requirements can be grown. Start with a basal key stone and work upwards, ensuring that the rocks are of the same type and that the strata all lies in the same direction. Never use mixed rock types in a rock garden feature.

The scree

A scree is a reconstruction of the conditions created at the base of a glacier. A collection of rock particles, stones and organic debris in which many unusual alpine plants can be grown. Rather than making a scree at ground level, it is preferable to raise it to a convenient working height. Not only are the plants easier to manage, but the opportunities for waterlogging are reduced.

A walled area is ideal, but any visually acceptable containment is fine. It should be 30-45cm deep, the base layer consisting of broken bricks or hardcore for at least 15cm, the next layer comprising large gravel and a soil based compost such as John Innes Seed Compost mixed one part to three with pea gravel. This creates a wonderful environment for most colourful alpines.